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Origin and history of clothing

Origin and history of clothing Main article: History of clothing Image:Neandertal.jpg A Neanderthal clothed in fur According to archaeologists and anthropologists, the earliest clothing probably consisted of fur, leather, leaves or grass, draped, wrapped or tied about the body for protection from the elements. Knowledge of such clothing remains inferential, since clothing materials deteriorate quickly compared to stone, bone, shell and metal artifacts. Archeologists have identified very early sewing needles of bone and ivory from about 30,000 BC, found near Kostenki, Russia in 1988.[citation needed] Ralf Kittler, Manfred Kayser and Mark Stoneking, anthropologists at the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology, have conducted a genetic analysis of human body lice that indicates that they originated about 107,000 years ago. Since most humans have very sparse body hair, body lice require clothing to survive, so this suggests a surprisingly recent date for the invention of clothing. Its invention may have coincided with the spread of modern Homo sapiens from the warm climate of Africa, thought to have begun between 50,000 and 100,000 years ago. However, a second group of researchers used similar genetic methods to estimate that body lice originated about 540,000 years ago (Reed et al. 2004. PLoS Biology 2(11): e340). For now, the date of the origin of clothing remains unresolved.[citation needed] Some human cultures, such as the various peoples of the Arctic Circle, until recently made their clothing entirely of prepared and decorated furs and skins. Other cultures have supplemented or replaced leather and skins with cloth: woven, knitted, or twined from various animal and vegetable fibers. See also: weaving, knitting, and twining Although modern consumers take clothing for granted, making the fabrics that go into clothing is not easy. One sign of this is that the textile industry was the first to be mechanized during the Industrial Revolution; before the invention of the powered loom, textile production was a tedious and labor-intensive process. One approach simply involves draping the cloth. Many peoples wore, and still wear, garments consisting of rectangles of cloth wrapped to fit — for example, the dhoti for men and the saree for women in the Indian subcontinent, the Scottish kilt or the Javanese sarong. The clothes may simply be tied up, as is the case of the first two garments; or pins or belts hold the garments in place, as in the case of the latter two. The precious cloth remains uncut, and people of various sizes or the same person at different sizes can wear the garment. Another approach involves cutting and sewing the cloth, but using every bit of the cloth rectangle in constructing the clothing. The tailor may cut triangular pieces from one corner of the cloth, and then add them elsewhere as gussets. Traditional European patterns for men's shirts and women's chemises take this approach. Modern European fashion treats cloth much more prodigally, typically cutting in such a way as to leave various odd-shaped cloth remnants. Industrial sewing operations sell these as waste; home sewers may turn them into quilts. In the thousands of years that humans have spent constructing clothing, they have created an astonishing array of styles, many of which we can reconstruct from surviving garments, photos, paintings, mosaics, etc., as well as from written descriptions. Costume history serves as a source of inspiration to current fashion designers, as well as a topic of professional interest to costumers constructing for plays, films, television, and historical reenactment. See also: History of Western fashion and Category:History of clothing [edit] Social status Alim Khan's bemedaled robe is a social message In many societies, people of high rank reserve special items of clothing or decoration for themselves as symbols of their social status. In ancient times, only Roman senators were permitted wear garments dyed with Tyrian purple; only high-ranking Hawaiian chiefs wore feather cloaks and palaoa or carved whale teeth. Under the Travancore kingdom of Kerala (India), lower caste women had to pay a tax for the right to cover their upper body. In China before the establishment of the republic, only the emperor could wear yellow. In many cases throughout history, there have been elaborate systems of sumptuary laws regulating who could wear what. In other societies (including most modern societies) no laws prohibit lower-status people wearing high status garments, but the high cost of status garments effectively limits their purchase and display. In current Western society, only the rich can afford haute couture. The threat of social ostracism may also limit garment choice. If one is not wearing a specific brand or style of clothing one's social status may fall. Yet, retailers have converted to fast fashion techniques that provide trendy pieces of clothing at lower price points. [edit] Marital status See also: Visual markers of marital status Traditionally Hindu women, once married, would wear sindoor, a red powder, in the parting of their hair. If widowed, they would abandon sindoor and jewelry and wear simple white clothing. Men and women of the Western world may wear wedding rings to indicate their marital status. Also women in the United States, depending on their heritage and/or religion, will usually wear a white gown, although some movie stars have been known to wear a black party dress for their wedding. Observant Jewish women cover their hair if they are married. There is a sect of Judaism in which girls who are old enough to be looking for a husband wear their hair in two braids as opposed to the one braid they wore before they were of a marriagable age.[citation needed] [edit] Religious habits and special religious clothing Religious clothing might be considered a special case of occupational clothing. Sometimes it is worn only during the performance of religious ceremonies. However, it may also be worn everyday as a marker for special religious status. For example, Jains wear unstitched cloth pieces when performing religious ceremonies. The unstitched cloth signifies unified and complete devotion to the task at hand, with no digression.[citation needed] The cleanliness of religious dresses in Eastern Religions like Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism is of paramount importance, which indicates purity. Clothing figures in prominently in the Bible where it appears in numerous contexts, the more prominent ones being: the story of Adam and Eve, Joseph's cloak, Judah and Tamar, Mordechai and Esther. Furthermore the priests officiating in the Temple had very specific garments, the lack of which would make one liable to death. Jewish ritual also requires rending of one's upper garment as a sign of mourning. This practice is found in the Bible when Jacob hears of the apparent death of his son Joseph.[1] See also: Category:Religious vesture. [edit] Sport and activity Most sports and physical activities are practiced wearing special clothing, for practical, comfort or safety reasons. Common sportswear garments include shorts, T-shirts, tennis shirts, tracksuits, and trainers. Specialized garments include wet suits (for swimming, diving or surfing), salopettes (for skiing) and leotards (for gymnastics). Also, spandex materials are often used as base layers to soak up sweat. Spandex is also preferable for active sports that require form fitting garments, such as wrestling, track & field, dance, gymnastics and swimming. [edit] Clothing materials Common clothing materials include natural fibers, which are renewable, biodegradable, such as: Cloth, typically made of viscose cotton, flax, wool, ramie, silk Down for down-filled parkas Fur Leather Denim And synthetic fibers which are man made and not biodegradable, made primarily from petrochemicals: Spandex Polyester Nylon Less-common clothing materials include: Bamboo Hemp Jute Lyocell Recycled paper PVC-Polyvinyl chloride Rayon Rubber Recycled or Recovered Cotton Recycled PET Soy Tyvek Other Natural Fibers Reinforcing materials such as wood, bone, plastic and metal may be used in fasteners or to stiffen garments. [edit] Clothing maintenance Clothing suffers assault both from within and without. The human body sheds skin cells and body oils, and exudes sweat, urine, and feces. From the outside, sun damage, moisture, abrasion and dirt assault garments. Fleas and lice may hide in seams. Worn clothing, if not cleaned and refurbished, will itch, look scruffy, and lose functionality (as when buttons fall off and zippers fail). In some cases, people wear an item of clothing until it falls apart. Cleaning leather presents difficulties, and bark cloth (tapa) cannot be washed without dissolving it. Owners may patch tears and rips, and brush off surface dirt, but old leather and bark clothing will always look old. But most clothing consists of cloth, and most cloth can be laundered and mended (patching, darning, but compare felt). [edit] Laundry, ironing, storage Humans have developed many specialized methods for laundering, ranging from the earliest "pound clothes against rocks in running stream" to the latest in electronic washing machines and dry cleaning (dissolving dirt in solvents other than water). Many kinds of clothing are designed to be ironed before they are worn to remove wrinkles. Most modern formal and semi-formal clothing is in this category (for example, dress shirts and suits). Ironed clothes are believed to look clean, fresh, and neat. Much contemporary casual clothing is made of knit materials that do not readily wrinkle, and do not require ironing. Some clothing is permanent press, having been treated with a coating (such as polytetrafluoroethylene) that suppresses wrinkles and creates a smooth appearance without ironing. Once clothes have been laundered and possibly ironed, they are usually hung on clothes hangers or folded, to keep them fresh until they are worn. Clothes are folded to allow them to be stored compactly, to prevent creasing, to preserve creases or to present them in a more pleasing manner, for instance when they are put on sale in stores. Many kinds of clothes are folded before they are put in suitcases as preparation for travel. Other clothes, such as suits, may be hung up in special garment bags, or rolled rather than folded. Many people use their clothing as packing material around fragile items that might otherwise break in transit. [edit] Mending In past times, mending was an art. A meticulous tailor or seamstress could mend rips with thread raveled from hems and seam edges so skillfully that the darn was practically invisible. When the raw material — cloth — was worth more than labor, it made sense to expend labor in saving it. Today clothing is considered a consumable item. Mass-manufactured clothing is less expensive than the labor required to repair it. Many people will buy a new piece of clothing rather than expend time mending. The thrifty still replace zippers and buttons and sew up ripped hems. [edit] The life cycle of clothing Used, unwearable clothing was once used for quilts, rag, rugs, bandages, and many other household uses. It could also be recycled into paper. Now it is usually thrown away. Used but still wearable clothing can be sold at consignment shops, flea markets, online auction, or donated to charity. Charities usually skim the best of the clothing to sell in their own thrift stores and sell the rest to merchants, who bale it up and ship it to Third World countries, where vendors bid for the bales, then sell the used clothing. There are many concerns about the life cycle of synthetics which come primarily from petrochemicals. Unlike natural fibers, their source is not renewable (in less than millions of years) and they are not biodegradable. [edit] Early 21st-century clothing styles A rave style, 2007 Western fashion has, to some extent, become international fashion, as Western media and styles penetrate all parts of the world. Few places remain where people do not wear items from the fast fashion market. These garmets are less expensive, mass-produced Western clothing. People in poor countries can afford used clothing from wealthier Western countries. People may wear ethnic or national dress on special occasions or in certain roles or occupations. For example, most Korean men and women have adopted Western-style dress for daily wear, but will still wear traditional hanboks on special occasions, like weddings and cultural holidays. Items of Western dress may also appear worn or accessorized in distinctive, non-Western ways. A Tongan man may combine a used T-shirt with a Tongan wrapped skirt, or tupenu. Western fashion, too, does not function monolithically. It comes in many varieties, from expensive haute couture to thrift store grunge. [edit] Regional styles Clothing of Europe and Russia Clothing in the Americas South American fashion United States mainstream fashion For example: "Catalogue" fashion, regional styles such as preppy or Western wear. United States alternative fashion These fashions are often associated with fans of various musical styles. See also: Gothic fashion, Hippie, Grunge, Hip hop music, and Fetish clothing Clothing in Asia Clothing in Africa Clothing in Oceania Islamic clothing [edit] Political issues [edit] Working conditions Please help improve this section by expanding it. Further information might be found on the talk page. (June 2008) Garment workers often have to labor under poor conditions. Mass-produced clothing is often manufactured in Sweatshop conditions, typified by long work hours, lack of benefits, and lack of worker representation. While most sweatshops are found in developing countries, clothes made in industrialized nations may also be manufactured in sweatshops, most often staffed by undocumented immigrants. Coalitions of NGOs, designers (Katharine Hamnett, American Apparel, Veja, Quiksilver, eVocal, Edun,...) and campaign groups like the Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) seek to improve these conditions as much as possible by sponsoring awareness-raising events, which draw the attention of both the media and the general public to the workers' conditions. Outsourcing production to low wage countries like China, India, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh became possible when the Multi Fibre Agreement (MFA) was abolished. The MFA was deemed a protectionist measure which placed quotas on the exports of textiles.[citation needed] Globalization is often quoted as the single most contributing factor to the poor working conditions of garment workers. Although many countries recognize treaties like the ILO, many have also made exceptions to certain parts of the treaties. India for example has not ratified sections 87 and 92 of the treaty.[citation needed] [edit] Fur Main article: Fur clothing The use of animal fur in clothing dates to prehistoric times. It is currently associated in the West with expensive, designer clothing. Once uncontroversial, it has recently been the focus of campaigns on the grounds that it is cruel and unnecessary. PETA, along with other animal rights and animal liberation groups have called attention to fur farming and other practices they consider cruel.

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RECREATION

Organized recreation Recreation during weekend along riverbanks in Japan Recreation can become an organized activity of local governments and for-profit enterprises. Local governments often create parks boards and/or community centers. Growing interest and funding via grants and taxation can result in an official parks and recreation department, which provides venues and staffing for organised sports, at-risk-youth activities, arts and crafts, and senior citizen activities. Several U.S. state governments operate recreation programs for their prison populations. Though controversial, these programs are intended to provide inmates with constructive use of their time through access to music, hobbies, crafts and exercise equipment. Other possible benefits include reduced healthcare costs and a lower recidivism rate. Private organised recreation is usually focused on a specific type of sport such as river rafting or mountaineering. Recreation as a career Becoming a recreation specialist often requires a bachelor of arts degree in recreation management. A recreation specialist would be expected to meet the recreational needs of a community or assigned interest group. People with such degrees often work in parks and recreation centers in towns, on community projects and activities. Networking with instructors, budgeting, and evaluation of continuing programs are common job duties. Most U.S. states have a professional organization for continuing education and certification in recreation management. The National Recreation and Park Association administers an examination called the CPRP (Certified Park and Recreation Professional) that is considered a national standard for professional recreation specialist practices.[3] Examples Computer games Cycling Dancing Eating and drinking Hobbies Hunting and fishing Kite flying Listening to music Martial arts Partying Pet ownership Reading a book Recreational drug use[1] Sexuality and Dating Shopping Singing Sports and exercise Travel and tourism Using the internet Video games Visiting an amusement park Watching movies Yoga In recent years, more 'exciting' forms of recreation have received more attention in the public eye, such as: skiing, snowboarding, bungee jumping, sky diving, hang gliding, paintball, rock climbing, backpacking, canyoning, caving, BASE jumping, adventure tourism and motorsport. References ^ a b Sheila B. Blume. "Alcohol and Drug Abuse". Encyclopedia of Occupational Health and Safety. Retrieved on 2007-06-18. "Customs that dictate alcohol use persist in other work too, such as the "three martini" business lunch, and the expectation that groups of workers will stop at the neighbourhood pub or tavern for a few convivial rounds of drinks at the end of the work day." ^ Claudia Wallis (1983-06-06). "Stress: Can We Cope?". Time. Retrieved on 2007-06-14. ^ "CPRP Exam". National Recreation and Park Association (2007). Retrieved on 2007-06-14. External links Look up recreation, fun in Wiktionary, the free dictionary. Recreation.gov website National Recreation and Park Association website Washington State Professional Recreation website Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recreation" Category: Recreation Hidden category: Semi-protected against vandalism

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Gossip Girl Pictures of Hip Fashion

Gossip Girl Pictures of Hip Fashion: Get the Look of Your Favorite Gossip Girl There is more to the show, Gossip Girl, than gorgeous rich kids, couple switching and all that teenage drama. Aside from its racy and bold depiction of what American teenagers are really like behind closed doors, the show also boasts of its massive Gossip Girl fan sites and huge fan base all over the world. Because of its popularity among its huge market, even fashion moguls have dipped their finger in making this teen-oriented show break new grounds. Now, Gossip Girl is not only a reference about pop culture. It also gives a forecast of the hottest in fashion through Gossip Girl pictures and images we see on the show and portals of the internet. If you are truly a fan of the show, you must have taken note of how your favorite Gossip Girl don her fashion. To help you get that Gossip Girl glow, here are some tips that you might want to look into to rock Serena, Blair or Jenny's fashion vibe. Serena van der Woodsen: It's all about the hair. Being the IT girl in the Upper East Side of Manhattan, Serena's fashion is distinctly regal and laid-back at the same time. Her boho-chic look combines vintage and a rock star feel making her the girl of every guy's dream. To get Serena's look, you must stack up on well-tailored jackets, skinny jeans and accessories. In the show, Serena cannot be caught dead without a cute piece of accessory thrown together with a cute top, tight-fit jeans and boots. Her eclectic mix of feminine fashion has been toned down by the sexiness and masculine appeal of her boots. When talking about Serena's fashion, it is impossible to look over her beautiful long blonde hair. Her hair has a wild and wavy feel to it that gives new meaning to the phrase 'crowning glory'. Her porcelain skin doesn't require her to apply a lot of makeup. Instead, put on a neutral lip shade and load on colorless lip gloss to get Serena's shine. Blair Waldorf: It's all about the head bands and ribbons. Blair Waldorf's doll appeal is unmistakable. Being a daughter of a fashion designer herself, it is not surprising for her to be so fashion forward and flamboyant in dressing up. Clad in cute and flowy dresses with delicate fabrics, Blair exudes a very strong feminine charm. We usually see Blair in short dresses with powerful prints that hug her petite body. She keeps the accessories to a minimum with her head band being the centerpiece. Her head bands have big ribbons that frame her doll face perfectly. If you are a true blue fan of hers, you'd notice that her head bands match stilettos and pumps, too. Be brave to don her look and come out as the undeniable Queen Bee of your group. When it comes to makeup, Blair channels all our attention towards her lips by applying plum or red lipstick with lots of lip gloss. She puts on light eye makeup, but applies a lot of mascara and traces her lids with black eyeliner to reinforce the look. Jenny Humphrey: It's all about the eye makeup. We have seen Jenny blossom from an awkward young girl to a fashionista the instant she tried to steal the Queen Bee spot from Blair Waldorf. Although she has been a bit unsuccessful in dethroning the brunet, Jenny is still keeping a lot of score because of the experimental and original fashion sense she has developed. Eyeing a career in the fashion industry at a young age, little Jenny is not new when it comes to hoarding attention because of what she wears. She layers a simple tank top with a cute cropped jacket, a beautiful dress with a coat and accessorizes them with eye-catching pieces like necklaces and chokers. Of course, Jenny surprises everyone with her black eyeliner, full bangs and red lips that really bring out the beautiful contours of her face.

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Initial Award Abstract

Over the past decade, California has instituted a successful public health campaign to reduce the number of active smokers in the state. One result of that campaign has been the increasing stigmatization of the habit of smoking and of smokers themselves. Although the health benefits of a reduction in smoking are clear and non-controversial, there may be unintended social and ethical consequences to health messages which promote a cultural climate in which smoking is not only disapproved of but in which the smoker is held as morally or socially unacceptable. One such possible consequence is the effect that campaigns may have on the distribution of health care dollars and scarce resources such as organ transplants to smokers. Studies show that, often, there are sound medical reasons for the decision to limit care to smokers, but these studies also indicate that the characterization of smokers as somehow morally "less deserving" also plays a role. There is already evidence that implicit, i.e., unacknowledged, rationing to smokers does occur and strong arguments are being made for explicit rationing as well. The difficulty lies in distinguishing appropriate, just ethical allocation of care to smokers that might include some limitations or denials of care from those allocation decisions that are based merely on a bias or prejudice. In addition, difficulty lies in balancing the substantial contributions of anti-smoking campaigns as well as other health promotion/disease prevention programs to the health of the people of the State of California as a whole with the possible detriment to targeted individuals (i.e., those who continue to smoke). A further challenge is in normalizing, at least to some extent, guidelines and policies so that decisions at the bedside or in an HMO clinical case management office are consistent and fair. Addressing these critical ethical and policy dilemmas requires a combination of approaches. We propose first a program of empirical research to document the current status of rationing services to smokers. We need to know the attitudes and actual practices of clinicians, case managers and health care organizations throughout the state. In addition, we need to know the current climate of opinion among members of the general public and individuals who are chronically ill with smoking-related illnesses. However, data, no matter how carefully collected, will not answer the underlying ethical questions. Therefore, we also propose to create an ongoing Ethics Working Group. This group, composed of experts in health economics, health services research, philosophy, bioethics and health promotion, as well as lay representatives, will issue ethical guidelines to assist both health care providers and health care policy makers in determining appropriate care for those who have smoked or are currently smoking, and also to provide general ethical guideposts for caring for groups of individuals who are perceived as having contributed to, or caused, their own diseases.     Final Report Over the past decade, California has instituted a successful public health campaign to reduce the number of active cigarette smokers (smokers) in the State. An unintended consequence of this effort might be the increasing stigmatization of smokers. The purpose of this planning study was to lay the groundwork for a more comprehensive research project to determine the effect that such campaigns and the consequent stigmatization may have on attitudes towards and practice of allocation of health care to smokers. The specific aims of the study were to develop and validate empiric research instruments, and set up an Ethics Advisory Panel to integrate empiric results to ethical analysis and policy development. Three pilot surveys were conducted: 1) To document individual attitudes towards providing health care to smokers, a 125-item questionnaire was developed, pre-tested and distributed to 150 physicians, 90 physicians-in-training (trainees), and 100 patients at Stanford University Hospital and Clinics. Respondents' willingness and rationale for providing health care to active smokers were queried both with general statements and hypothetical vignettes about specific treatment decisions and access to health care. Results show that willingness to recommend treatment to active smokers was highest for hysterectomy and lowest for lung transplant across all respondent groups. However, patients were more inclined than physicians and trainees to recommend liver transplant, coronary artery bypass graft and multiple ICU admissions. While the majority of all respondent groups believe everyone should have equal access to health care, a majority of physicians and trainees reject the idea that "an active smoker is entitled to the same access to health care that a non-smoker has." Most popular reasons for these restrictions included: limited resources, personal responsibility and impact on long-term health. These results need to be replicated in a larger study. 2) To begin exploring existing practices of rationing, a structured interview guide was developed to cover a number of issues related to candidate screening and selection, and treatment eligibility criteria for smokers, focusing on organ transplantation, where explicit rationing to smokers currently occurs. This instrument was piloted by conducting a telephone survey of all multi-organ transplant (TX) centers in the State of California (n=14). Respondents included 12 TX coordinators at 9 hospitals, in charge of 18 TX programs (heart n=6, liver n=5, lung n=5 and heart-lung n=2). Results indicate that active smoking is an absolute exclusion for all lung, heart, and heart-lung TX programs surveyed, and for 3 out of 5 liver TX programs examined. The extent to which active smoking is becoming an exclusion in programs where smoking is not a recognized causal factor in the disease merits further study. 3) To analyze ethical justifications for providing or denying care to smokers, a structured interview guide was designed and pre-tested by conducting telephone interviews with a subset (10%) of respondents queried in the first survey. This survey helped validate and refine the questionnaire used in the first survey, but showed that in-depth understanding of the rationale underlying the decision-making process is required through less structured qualitative inquiry. This planning study has shown that attitudes, practices and rationales for the provision of health care to smokers may differ among lay and professionals, depend on the type of care, and overall, are worth further investigation. We have now developed appropriate methods to pursue this project.

How to start a clothing store

How to start a clothing store, as could be answered as needs two things. How to start a clothing store? surely needs a business license and a reseller’s permit. How to start a clothing store? Of course needs these two legal requirements. How to start a clothing store? Also needs two more prerequisites- Passion and vision. How to start a clothing store and to succeed in this is to be passionate about How to start a clothing store. Attempt to own a clothing store and knowing How to start a clothing store, can be given with some of the guidelines as follows. How to start a clothing store? First step on this is to obtain a legal license. To be good on knowing How to start a clothing store, you should require filling up some simple forms and How to start a clothing store finals within a couple of weeks as you get the permit. Next on How to start a clothing store decide the location and the amount of space you needed. How to start a clothing store in certain location and the amount of space needs a look over the cost of that space. So, with How to start a clothing store is to get building permits and electrical permits. Then on knowing How to start a clothing store have a startup finance. When you are in need to know How to start a clothing store, be aware that you calculate the cost of everything and estimate accurately. Next answer for How to start a clothing store is to do a market analysis. This is very decisive for the likelihood of the clothing store. When need to know How to start a clothing store, find the types of clothes that would sell there. Another important factor on How to start a clothing store is to know your competitors in the market. Purchase the stock is to go next with How to start a clothing store. When you ask How to start a clothing store you should decide on what to sell, then next is to find the merchandiser. When you need to know How to start a clothing store at the beginning of your nurture, be sure that you do a minimum buy. When you know that you are in embarking of your business, you ask How to start a clothing store. Then you need to be sure that you buy at least a dozen pieces for a given size and color. When knowing How to start a clothing store, you can negotiate these matters for the best deal. When you have to know How to start a clothing store, consider seasonal requirements and estimated sales decide on the amount of clothes to be stocked and purchase that decided quantity. Don’t have stock in excess as it may prove costly, and also may result in difficult of maintaining the inventory. As a whole, adding up to an authorized sanction you should have a dream of becoming a boutique holder.

Amazing Plus Size Clothing Deals

What's the 'deal' with plus size clothing? Much has improved. The gamut of variety can be breathless, and we meant that in a positive way. For one, plus size teens to groovy grandmas can go over specialty stores selling trendy clothes that fit and look good. Popular brand names such as Lane Bryant, Fashion Bug Plus, and Torrid are just some of the brands that penetrate the mind when it comes to plus size clothing. Department stores and boutiques have also stepped up on thinking of clever ways to draw in these women customers. Now, it's not just about having a large inventory of plus size clothing available but offering shapes and styles that are altogether trendy and flattering. Browsing the Internet is another great place to find stylish larger size outfits. What's good about this is you can "hop" from one online store to another without even leaving your seat and breaking in a sweat. Shipping and not actually fitting the item before ordering can be common concerns but luckily there are stores with customer-oriented return policies. Still can't make up your mind whether to buy from an online store? Most retailers selling via the Internet have size charts that detail the body measurements and sometimes even have virtual models that are patterned to your proportions to ensure a perfect fit. But perhaps the best deal of all when it comes to shopping for plus size clothing is that it has empowered women to appreciate their curvaceous shape more.

the great wall

From Shanhaiguan, northeast of Qinhuangdao City, Hebei Province in the east coast, the Great Wall rises and falls with the contours of the mountains westward, crossing the provinces, municipalities and autonomous regions of Liaoning, Hebei, Tianjin, Beijing, Shanxi, Inner Mongolia, Shaanxi, Ningxia and Gansu for 6,700 kilometers, to end at Jiayuguan, southwest of Jiayuguan City in Gansu Province.

The construction of the wall began during the Spring and Autumn period (770-476 BC) and Warring States period (475-221 BC) during the Eastern Zhou Dynasty. Ducal states at that time built walls to defend their own territories. After the First Emperor of the Qin Dynasty crushed all rival states, he founded the first centralized and unified dynasty in Chinese history. To consolidate the country and ward off invasion by ethnic minority tribes in the north, he had the walls linked and extended, giving rise to the 5,000-kilometer-long Qin Great Wall. Later dynasties from Han (206 BC – AD 220) to Ming (1368-1644) kept building and improving the wall, extending it more than 1,000 kilometers to today's scale.

The Great Wall comprises walls, passes, watchtowers, castles and fortresses. The walls are made of large stone strips. From east to west, the sections at Shanhaiguan, Jinshanling, Mutianyu, Badaling and Jiayuguan have become tourist attractions.

The Great Wall we see today mostly dates back to the Ming Dynasty. The best-preserved and most imposing section is at Badaling in Beijing. The section, located outside the Juyongguan Pass, is made of large blue bricks and has an average height of 7.8 meters. Five to six horses can be ridden abreast along it. At regular intervals there is an arched door leading to the top of the wall. The walls are covered with many lookout holes, window embrasures and castellated crenels. Beacon towers were also built at fixed intervals for passing on military information. All these indicate the important role of the Great Wall in military defense.

As one of the most magnificent ancient defense works, the Great Wall is known as one of the wonders of the world. All tourists now know the saying, "You are not a real person until you have climbed the Great Wall."

The Great Wall was put on the world cultural heritage list in 1987.

Indonesian Batik has a worldwide recognition

The word "batik" is Indonesian in origin, even if the concept was known by Egyptians and Indians. It is known to be more than a millenium old, and there are evidences that cloth decorated through some form of resist technique was in use in the early centuries AD in several West African, Middle-Eastern and Asian communities.

The word Batik is originally an Idonesian-Malay word and means to dot .This art of textile is spread in the hindu and malay world, but Indonesia is certainly the heart of the Batik.This way of painting and coloring textile has reached its higher degree of excellence in the Island of Java , in cities like Solo, Yogyakarta, Pekalongan or Cirebon. From Java this 'batik' cloth was exported to other islands of the archipelago and to the Malay peninsula.
On the 17th century, the Javanese sultanate of Mataram accorded important ceremonial functions to the Batik clothes. Sultan Agung of Mataram is known to have dressed in white cotton decorated with Indigo blue, and his court dancers wore kain kembangan colored with a red organic dye. During the past two or three centuries batik has become one of the principal means of expression of the spiritual and cultural values of Southeast Asia.

SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF THE BATIK

Selection and Preparation of the Cloth

Natural materials such as cotton or silk are used for the cloth, so that it can absorb the wax that is applied in the dye resisting process. The fabrics must be of a high thread count (densely woven). It is important that cloth of high quality have this high thread count so that the intricate design qualities of batik can be maintained.
The cloth that is used for batik is washed and boiled in water many times prior to the application of wax so that all traces of starches, lime, chalk and other sizing materials are removed. Prior to the implementation of modern day techniques, the cloth would have been pounded with a wooden mallet or ironed to make it smooth and supple so it could best receive the wax design. With the finer machine-made cotton available today, the pounding or ironing processes can be omitted. Normally men did this step in the batik process.
Strict industry standards differentiate the different qualities of the cloth used today, which include Primissima (the best) and Prima. The cloth quality is often written on the edge of the design. A lesser quality cloth which is often used in Blaco.
Design Tools
Although the art form of batik is very intricate, the tools that are used are still very simple. The canting, believed to be a purely Javanese invention, is a small thin wall spouted copper container (sometimes called a wax pen) that is connected to a short bamboo handle. Normally it is approximately 11 cm. in length. The copper container is filled with melted wax and the artisan then uses the canting to draw the design on the cloth.
Canting have different sizes of spouts (numbered to correspond to the size) to achieve varied design effects. The spout can vary from 1 mm in diameter for very fine detailed work to wider spouts used to fill in large design areas. Dots and parallel lines may be drawn with canting that have up to 9 spouts. Sometimes a wad of cotton is fastened over the mouth of the canting or attached to a stick that acts as a brush to fill in very large areas.
For close-up pictures of canting.
Wajan
The wajan is the container that holds the melted wax. It looks like a small wok. Normally it is made of iron or earthenware. The wajan is placed on a small brick charcoal stove or a spirit burner called an 'anglo'. The wax is kept in a melted state while the artisan is applying the wax to the cloth.
Wax
Different kinds and qualities of wax are used in batik. Common waxes used for batik consist of a mixture of beeswax, used for its malleability, and paraffin, used for its friability. Resins can be added to increase adhesiveness and animal fats create greater liquidity.
The best waxes are from the Indonesian islands of Timor, Sumbawa and Sumatra; three types of petroleum-based paraffin (white, yellow and black) are used. The amounts mixed are measured in grams and vary according to the design. Wax recipes can be very closely guarded secrets. Varying colors of wax make it possible to disguise different parts of the pattern through the various dying stages. Larger areas of the pattern are filled in with wax that is cheaper quality and the higher quality wax is used on the more intricately detailed sections of the design.
The wax must be kept at the proper temperature. A wax that is too cool will clog the spout of the canting. A wax that is too hot will flow too quickly and be uncontrollable. The artisan will often blow into the spout of the canting before applying wax to the cloth in order to clear the canting of any obstructions.
Cap
Creating batik is a very time consuming craft. To meet growing demands and make the fabric more affordable to the masses, in the mid-19th century the . cap. (copper stamp - pronounced chop) was developed. This invention enabled a higher volume of batik production compared to the traditional method which entailed the tedious application of wax by hand with a canting.
Each cap is a copper block that makes up a design unit. Cap are made of 1.5 cm wide copper stripes that are bent into the shape of the design. Smaller pieces of wire are used for the dots. When complete, the pattern of copper strips is attached to the handle.
The cap must be precisely made. This is especially true if the pattern is to be stamped on both sides of the fabric. It is imperative that both sides of the cap are identical so that pattern will be consistent.
Sometimes cap are welded between two grids like pieces of copper that will make a base for the top and the bottom. The block is cut in half at the center so the pattern on each half is identical. Cap vary in size and shape depending on the pattern they are needed for. It is seldom that a cap will exceed 24 cm in diameter, as this would make the handling too difficult.
Men usually handle the application of wax using cap. A piece of cloth that involves a complicated design could require as many as ten sets of cap. The usage of cap, as opposed to canting, to apply the wax has reduced the amount of time to make a cloth.
Today, batik quality is defined by cap or tulis, the second meaning hand-drawn designs which use a canting, or kombinasi, a combination of the two techniques.
Dyes
Traditional colors for Central Javanese batik were made from natural ingredients and consisted primarily of beige, blue, brown and black.
The oldest color that was used in traditional batik making was blue. The color was made from the leaves of the Indigo plant. The leaves were mixed with molasses sugar and lime and left to stand overnight. Sometimes sap from the Tinggi tree was added to act as a fixing agent. Lighter blue was achieved by leaving the cloth in the dye bath for short periods of time. For darker colors, the cloth would be left in the dye bath for days and may have been submerged up to 8 - 10 times a day.
In traditional batik, the second color applied was a brown color called soga. The color could range from light yellow to a dark brown. The dye came from the bark of the Soga tree. Another color that was traditionally used was a dark red color called mengkuda. This dye was created from the leaves of the Morinda Citrifolia.
The final hue depended on how long the cloth was soaked in the dye bath and how often it was dipped. Skilled artisans can create many variations of these traditional colors. Aside from blue, green would be achieved by mixing blue with yellow; purple was obtained by mixing blue and red. The soga brown color mixed with indigo would produce a dark blue-black color.

BATIK, TRADITIONAL CLOTHES FROM INDONESIA

It would be impossible to visit or live in Indonesia and not be exposed to one of the country's most highly developed art forms, batik. On your first visit to a batik store or factory you will undoubtedly experience an overwhelming stimulation of the senses - due to the many colors, patterns and the actual smell of batik. Only through repeated visits and a bit of study will the types of designs and their origins become apparent.
The word batik is thought to be derived from the word 'ambatik' which translated means 'a cloth with little dots'. The suffix 'tik' means little dot, drop, point or to make dots. Batik may also originate from the Javanese word 'tritik' which describes a resist process for dying where the patterns are reserved on the textiles by tying and sewing areas prior to dying, similar to tie dye techniques. Another Javanese phase for the mystical experience of making batik is “mbatik manah” which means “drawing a batik design on the heart”.
A Brief History
Although experts disagree as to the precise origins of batik, samples of dye resistance patterns on cloth can be traced back 1,500 years ago to Egypt and the Middle East. Samples have also been found in Turkey, India, China, Japan and West Africa from past centuries. Although in these countries people were using the technique of dye resisting decoration, within the textile realm, none have developed batik to its present day art form as the highly developed intricate batik found on the island of Java in Indonesia.
Although there is mention of 'fabrics highly decorated' in Dutch transcripts from the 17th century, most scholars believe that the intricate Javanese batik designs would only have been possible after the importation of finely woven imported cloth, which was first imported to Indonesia from India around the 1800s and afterwards from Europe beginning in 1815. Textile patterns can be seen on stone statues that are carved on the walls of ancient Javanese temples such as Prambanan (AD 800), however there is no conclusive evidence that the cloth is batik. It could possibly be a pattern that was produced with weaving techniques and not dying. What is clear is that in the 19th century batik became highly developed and was well ingrained in Javanese cultural life.
Some experts feel that batik was originally reserved as an art form for Javanese royalty. Certainly it's royal nature was clear as certain patterns were reserved to be worn only by royalty from the Sultan's palace. Princesses and noble women may have provided the inspiration for the highly refined design sense evident in traditional patterns. It is highly unlikely though that they would be involved in any more than the first wax application. Most likely, the messy work of dyeing and subsequent waxings was left to court artisans who would work under their supervision.
Javanese royalty were known to be great patrons of the arts and provided the support necessary to develop many art forms, such as silver ornamentation, wayang kulit (leather puppets) and gamelan orchestras. In some cases the art forms overlap. The Javanese dalang (puppeteer) not only was responsible for the wayang puppets but was also an important source of batik patterns. Wayang puppets are usually made of goat skin, which is then perforated and painted to create the illusion of clothing on the puppet. Used puppets were often sold to eager ladies who used the puppets as guides for their batik patterns. They would blow charcoal through the holes that define the patterns of clothing on the puppets, in order to copy the intricate designs onto the cloth.
Other scholars disagree that batik was only reserved as an art form for royalty, as they also feel its use was prevalent with the rakyat, the people. It was regarded an important part of a young ladies accomplishment that she be capable of handling a canting (the pen-like instrument used to apply wax to the cloth) with a reasonable amount of skill, certainly as important as cookery and other housewifery arts to Central Javanese women.

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